The Into Archive way to spot real vintage Chanel (90s–00s)

If you’ve ever hovered over a vintage Chanel flap thinking, is she real?, you’re not alone. At Into Archive, we handle 90s–00s Chanel every week—classics, minis, vanities, the occasional unicorn—and we’ve learned that authentication is less about one “magic” tell and more about a stack of small truths that add up.

Today I’m taking you behind the scenes of how we look at a bag in our Flatiron showroom: what we check first, myths we ignore, and the red flags that make us put a piece right back down.

The five-second scan we always do

1) The hologram sticker (and card—maybe).
Yes, we look for a clean sticker with era-consistent details. No, the card isn’t proof of anything by itself. Cards can travel; construction can’t.

2) Quilting & stitching.
Diamonds should line up across seams and pockets. Stitching is tight and even; corner tension is neat, not loose or loopy.

3) Leather, in your hand.
90s lambskin is buttery but structured; caviar is pebbled and firm—not rubbery. Edge dye is tidy and even.

4) Hardware that feels like jewelry.
Weight matters. The CC turnlock edges are crisp, the post sits straight, and tones match across chain, grommets, and lock.

5) Proportion & vibe check.
Does the plaque feel oversized? Is the strap drop weirdly long for the model? If the silhouette feels “off,” it usually is.

Showroom notes: what photos we take for you

• Sticker macro: so you can compare font, lamination, and wear.
• Turnlock & backplate: clean engravings, straight post, tidy screws.
• Quilting alignment shots: flap closed, side panel, back pocket arc.
• Leather close-ups: lambskin grain or caviar pebbles, plus edge dye.
• Chain join: solder points neat, leather woven evenly.

(If you’re buying online from us, these details are already in the product photos—no guesswork.)

Red flags that make us pause

• Sticker/card mismatch or obviously re-glued stickers
• Printed interior logos instead of a proper heat stamp
• Super shiny, plasticky “lambskin”; rubbery caviar
• Ultra-light hardware or mixed metal tones
• Zipper pulls with bubbly, melted-looking fonts

If two or three of these stack up, we move on.

P.S. What we’re loving in the showroom right now

• Classic Flap Small in lambskin (black) — timeless evening-to-day
• Medium Caviar Classic Flap — pebble-tough, holds structure beautifully
• Rectangular Mini Shoulder — short drop, perfect proportions
• 90s Vanity Case — structured, rare in great condition

(See what’s currently in stock on our Chanel page—pieces move fast.)