Understanding Vintage Fashion Sizing

Vintage fashion sizing can be confusing because standards have changed drastically over the decades. A size “8” in the 1970s may fit very differently than a modern size 8. At Into Archive, we curate pieces from iconic designers such as Chanel, Dior, Hermès, and Yves Saint Laurent, which means understanding vintage sizing is essential to finding the perfect fit.

Vintage pieces carry not only style but also history, so knowing how to navigate sizes ensures you can enjoy the craftsmanship without frustration. Unlike modern clothing, vintage garments were often custom-tailored or produced in limited runs, leading to unique fits even within the same size.

Why Vintage Sizes Differ

Several factors make vintage sizing different from modern standards:

• Era-specific standards: Clothing from the 1920s–1980s reflects body shapes and proportions considered ideal in those periods. For instance, 1950s dresses emphasized a tiny waist, while 1970s pieces often had straighter silhouettes.
• Brand-specific fits: Designers like Dior and Chanel created signature silhouettes, meaning their sizing might not correspond with other brands. A 1960s Dior dress size 36 may fit like a modern 2–4, whereas a 1970s Gucci jacket labeled size 38 could fit closer to a modern 6.
• Global differences: European, American, and Japanese sizing all differed before international standardization, so always check the garment measurements, not just the tag.

How to Measure Yourself for Vintage Clothing

Taking precise measurements is the key to shopping vintage successfully. Follow these steps:

1. Bust/Chest: Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of your bust. Keep it snug but not tight.
2. Waist: Measure your natural waistline at its narrowest point.
3. Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips, typically 7–9 inches below the waist.
4. Shoulder Width: Measure from seam to seam across your back.
5. Length: For dresses, skirts, or pants, measure from waist to hem or inseam.

At Into Archive, we provide garment measurements for all pieces so you can compare accurately. For example, a 1980s Hermès blazer listing will often include shoulder width, sleeve length, and chest measurements, helping you shop confidently.

Converting Vintage Sizes

Here’s a rough era-based guide to help you understand sizing across decades:

• 1920s–1940s: Sizes were often labeled numerically or with letters (S, M, L). A size 12 in the 1930s might fit like a modern size 4–6. Silhouettes were looser in the 1920s and more structured in the 1940s.
• 1950s–1960s: Hourglass silhouettes dominated. A 1960s Chanel jacket size 36 may correspond to a modern size 2–4. Dresses often had nipped-in waists and fuller skirts.
• 1970s–1980s: Sizing increased slightly, but pieces still often run smaller than contemporary sizes. A 1980s Dior dress labeled size 38 may fit like a modern 6–8.

Popular Vintage Brand Examples

Here are some iconic designers and how their sizing might differ:

• Chanel: Jackets and suits often run small with narrow shoulders and fitted waists. A vintage 38 usually fits a modern 4–6.
• Dior: Early Dior dresses feature structured bodices and may require precise bust and waist measurements.
• Hermès: Leather goods like handbags have more standard sizing, but clothing items often run small and structured.
• Yves Saint Laurent: Silhouettes vary widely depending on the era, from 1970s wide-legged pants to 1980s power jackets.

Tips for Shopping Vintage

• Measure, don’t guess: Always compare your measurements to the garment.
• Adjustable features help: Belts, ties, elastic waistbands, and wrap designs can allow some flexibility.
• Alterations are an option: Small tailoring adjustments can make a piece fit perfectly.
• Check closures and seams: Buttons, zippers, and lining can affect fit. Vintage garments may have delicate closures that need careful handling.

Caring for Vintage Pieces

Preserving the shape and integrity of vintage garments is crucial:

• Hand wash or dry clean according to fabric type.
• Store in breathable garment bags. Avoid plastic to prevent yellowing.
• Support structured shoulders with padded hangers.
• Rotate shoes and handbags to prevent wear on specific areas.

Why Vintage Sizing Knowledge Matters

Understanding sizing allows you to confidently shop curated collections at Into Archive, from Hermès handbags to Yves Saint Laurent dresses, ensuring each purchase is a perfect fit. By learning how sizes have evolved and how brands differ, you can appreciate the craftsmanship, history, and style of every vintage piece.

Shopping vintage is not just about clothing—it’s about connecting with the history of fashion and finding pieces that carry timeless elegance. Knowing your measurements and how they translate to vintage sizing ensures that you can do so with confidence.